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Zang Toi: From Dallas to Dubai, Zang Toi has built a solid business and a loyal following for his theatrical evening looks — such as the huge beaded opera cloaks he showed — along with curve-accenting sportswear and coats: a leopard-patterned, calfskin mini trench and a plaid toggle topper.

Charles Nolan: Charles Nolan showed a strong collection of English-inspired sportswear, proper looks that were refined enough for Helen Mirren in "The Queen" and inventive enough in their elegance to appeal to the fashion flock — especially the tomato-toned shift over burgundy tights or the loose pleated trousers.

Brian Reyes: His shapes could use some finessing and there's no reason for a down-filled ruffled collar on a dress, but Brian Reyes also showed an intrepid eye for fabrics and prints that worked best on little bubble dresses and skirts.

Katie Zorn: Let others wax poetic about travels to far-off lands; Katie Zorn found inspiration in her own hood — Manhattan's Carnegie Hill — and showed plenty of polished Upper East Side looks with a louche urban ease, e.g., prim blazer-and-skirt pairings and wool jersey dresses.

Angel Sanchez: Angel Sanchez delivered some dreamy eveningwear looks for the confident young girl, trimming one cocktail dress in pleated patent leather and sprinkling sparkles over a wrinkled chiffon gown.

Kai Kühne: Kai Kühne sent out chic silk tunic dresses and cleverly constructed furs, but the presentation was seriously marred by an hour-plus wait and hardly any lights or music.

Palmer Jones: Sisters Kathryn and Lindy Jones used a Space Age motif to subtle effect at Palmer Jones, showing genteel dresses and separates pepped up with occasional glossy cosmic embellishments.

Lutz & Patmos: Tina Lutz and Marcia Patmos did what they do best: cashmere knits to live in — from fine-gauge capes to chunky sweaters to simple cardigans, like the one by this season's guest designer, Julianne Moore.

Costello Tagliapietra: Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra's strongest looks were their fluid jersey dresses, such as the long-sleeved navy number, but the stiff fabrics used for coats and pants need refining.